Coconut, cardamom, and a forest walk.

The big spice tours run as buses. Forty people, a guided script, a gift shop. We do not send our guests there.

Instead we walk to a small farm run by friends of the family. You crush a cardamom pod between your fingers and smell what it actually is. You pull a clove off the tree. The kids - guests bring kids more often than you would think - find sticks and turn them into swords.

At the end of the walk someone climbs a tree and brings down two coconuts. They cut off the top with a machete. You drink. It is the best you will have all week.

About three hours, including transport. Honest price, paid directly to the farmer.